How to Prune Trees

If you have trees, you know how important it is to keep them healthy and looking great. The proper pruning techniques will help remove unwanted growth while encouraging new growth for proper tree structure. Learn how to prune trees in this Lowe’s video:

The best time of year to prune trees really depends on the type of tree and the results you’re looking for. In general, pruning during the dormant season is typically best, particularly at the end of fall and early spring. It allows time to heal and commonly results in new growth during spring. Pruning in summer after growing season will result in slowing the growth of the tree by reducing the leaf surface. If you’d like to enhance flowering, prune in the spring after the flowers have faded and the leaves are fully formed. For the summer blooming trees, prune in the winter or early spring; however, dead, broken or diseased limbs should be cut immediately.

Before you begin pruning, you also need to have the right tools. Scissor cut shears are good for light pruning. Loppers, a pruning saw and a pole saw get the job done on larger branches. Electric- and gas-powered pole saws make cutting even easier. Make sure all your saw blades are sharp for the best results. You’ll also need a ladder gloves, and of course safety glasses. If you’re working under large limbs, you should also wear a hard hat.

Safety is critical in working with trees. Before you get started, look for hanging limbs and power lines. Call a professional if your tree is near power lines. Never operate a chainsaw while standing on a ladder, and don’t stand on or above the rung noted on the safety label.

Hanging limbs can cause damage or injury if they fall, so remove those first. Look closely for damaged or diseased branches and remove them. The tree needs to allocate energy towards new growth and healthy branches.

Thoroughly check your tree for the following problems that will require the help of an arborist:

• Look for decayed or hollowed-out wood and check around the tree trunk for peeling bark.
• Inspect the roots. if you see raised soil or bare roots, it can indicate an unstable root system and tree.
• If mulch is mounded too high, it can cause decay around the root flare as well as promote girdling roots. Girdling is when roots wrap around and squeeze the main trunk.

Step back and get a big picture view of your tree, then decide how you want it to grow. Find the strong leader branches (those giving the tree its structure) and determine the branches to cut. The size of the tree determines how many limbs you can remove. You shouldn’t remove more than 25% of a small young tree and no more than 10% of a large older tree.

For interior pruning, find any branches that are downward pointing and branches crossing one another. These will often cause damage as they rub together, wearing or rubbing a weak spot and, over time, breaking. Another comon issue is when two branches form a V crotch. You’ll want to remove one side to prevent the branches from becoming weak. When these branches grow, they’re essentially competing or growing against each other, weakening the tree.

When pruning, cut a slight angle about a 1/4 inch beyond the bud or limb. If you have a large limb, use a handsaw or pole saw. It’s helpful to start your cuts away from the trunk, removing small sections at a time.

If you get a branch that’s over an inch in diameter, you’ll want to make a three-point cut to avoid tearing the bark. First, cut a quarter way through the underside of the limb a few inches away from the trunk. Then about an inch past the first cut, you’ll cut through the limb on the top side. The limb’s weight will cause it to break between the two cuts. Finally, the third cut will be just outside the branch bark ridge, the top section. The bottom is called the branch collar. This is the flared base of the branch. Cut downward and outward close to perpendicular to the limb. The final cut will be made as close to the tree as possible without damaging the collar. Err on the side of caution and leave it a little bit longer, then check with an arborist to see if a sealer is necessary. As the tree ages, it will close over the cut.

Another aspect of tree maintenance is to remove water sprouts and suckers. Water sprouts are small vertical limbs growing from dominant branches. Some sprouts are OK because you don’t want to have a bare limb with leaves only at the end. Suckers are small trees growing from the base of the trunk. Both take nutrients from the tree. Simply use scissor cut shears to remove them.

Focus on pruning that encourages new growth in the directions you desire and for more flowers or fruit. It’s important to understand how the tree grows. A terminal bud at the end of the branch produces hormones that slow the growth of lateral buds along the side of the shoot. These lateral buds add bulk or bushiness to the tree. Waiting until the shoot is long enough or clipping the terminal bud will encourage growth of lateral buds and add bulk to the tree. Pruning your trees regularly will ensure their health for years to come.