How to Install Wood-Look Floor Tile

Wood-look tile combines the durability of tile with the beautiful appearance of hardwood and is a great upgrade for an old kitchen. Learn how to install wood-look floor tile in this Lowe’s video:

For a complete tools and materials list, flooring calculator and project instructions, click here.

A basic tile installation has a solid subfloor. a layer of thin set mortar, a tile substrate like an upcoupling membrane or a cement backer board, another layer or mortar, tile, grout and sealer. Tip: Make sure the dishwasher will fit under the countertop once you install the tile underneath. The tile can also affect the toe kicks.

Prep is key to a successful tile project. Move out your appliances and remove any base molding. The installation takes a few days, so plan accordingly.

In some cases you can install over old vinyl flooring, but it’s best to get down to your subfloor. To remove vinyl, cut it into small pieces and pull it up from the subfloor. A scraper and adhesive remover can be helpful to remove the vinyl glue.

Prep Subfloor

Your subfloor must be in good condition, of proper thickness, uniform, level, clean and dry.

For wood subfloors, make sure the panels are securely attached to the floor joists.
To verify the thickness of wood subfloors, check a floor register or drill a small hole and note the bit depth. 5/8-inch plywood should be sufficient for floor joists spaced every 16 inches. Add another layer of OSB or ply if your subfloor isn’t thick enough.
Make sure the subfloor is uniform. A flat subfloor is extremely important to keep plank tiles from cracking. Use a leveling compound on low spots or sand high spots.
Finally, make sure your subfloor is dry and clean.

Install Substrate

With the subfloor prepped, you can install the substrate. The two options are cement backer board or a thinner waterproof uncoupling membrane which is ideal for kitchens; in this video, an uncouping membrane is used for the substrate. Before you install the substrate, prep the door jambs. Stack a floor tile on a piece of the substrate against the trim. Use a saw to cut it about 1/16 inch above the tile and cut doors 1/8 inch above the tile.

Roll the uncoupling membrane across the floor and cut it to length, accounting for a 1/4-inch perimeter expansion gap. Set it aside. Spread Latex Portland Cement Mortar with the flat side of the trowel, then comb over it in straight lines. Place the underlayment on top and use a float to press it into the mortar. Continue installing across the room, cutting the underlayment to fit where needed. Mark floor registers so you can cut them later.

Waterproofing the seams is a good idea in the kitchen. Spread unmodified thinset across the seams and press the waterproofing band over top. Be sure to cut out any floor registers. Allow the thinset to cure following the manufacturer’s instructions, then you can mark your starting line.

Lay Down Tile

Mark the center of two opposing walls or cabinets and snap a chalk line on the floor. Hairspray can keep the chalk from rubbing off. Do the same on the other walls or cabinets to form a cross and check that it’s square. Measure from the center to the starting wall. Subtract the 1/4 inch expansion gap and the width of two tiles and spacers. Mark this distance at the ends. Snap the line between to get a straight line near the wall.

Do a dry layout with spacers to see if you’ll have skinny pieces near the perimeter. Make adjustments and re-snap your starting line if needed. Position a straight edge on the line and hold it in place with bags of mortar or grout. You’ll start laying the tile with this row.

Mix unmodified thinset for large format tile following the directions. Spread it over a small work area, pressing it into the cavities of the underlayment. Now spread additional thinset and comb it with the notched side of a 1/2-inch by 1/2-inch notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Don’t make swirls.

Next, back butter a tile with a little bit of mortar and press and twist the tile into the thinset along the straight edge. Make sure to collapse the mortar ridges. Finish laying the tile for the first couple of rows, placing 1/8-inch spacers in between and frequently checking that the tiles are even and level.

After a couple of rows are down, you can install the row against the wall where you used the straight edge. Continue laying the floor a few rows at a time. Stagger the joints no more that 1/3 the length of tile. A wider stagger might cause lippage, a difference in height between adjacent tiles. Because long plank tiles are often crowned in the middle. Periodically check the tile back to make sure there’s full contact between the mortar and tile; if not, back butter again or use a trowel with larger notches.

At row ends, you’ll need to cut the planks. Just mark and cut with a tile cutter or wet saw. At doorways, install transitions while the thinset is still wet. Also, as you’re working, wipe up excess mortar with a wet sponge. Remember to leave a 1/4-inch expansion gap between the tile and wall.

Seal and Grout

After the thinset is cured for 24 hours, apply a tile sealer following the directions, then you can grout the joints. Try to match the tile color for that hardwood floor appearance. Mix the grout following the directions, usually to a pste-like consistency. Press it into the joints with a rubber float, pulling it diagonally across the joints and removing the excess. Do not fill the expansion gaps along the wall. After about 20 minutes, wipe the grout lines with a clean wet sponge. Remaining residue can be removed with a haze remover. After grouting, don’t walk on the floor for about 24 hours.

When the grout has dried, apply silicone sealant to the expansion joints and apply a grout sealer to help prevent stains. Reinstall the moldings. Finally, replace everything in your kitchen.