How to Install a Deadbolt

Adding a deadbolt to your door or changing it to a newer unit can give you some extra piece of mind against break-ins. It’s a simple upgrade that’s easy with the right tools and tips. Learn how to install a deadbolt in this Ace Hardware video:

1. Line it up:

Decide on the placement of the deadbolt. 6-8 inches up from your door knob or handle set is one standard; 44 inches above the bottom of the door is another. Make sure the new hardware won’t bump into the handles on your storm or security door.
Figure out the back set, which is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole you’ll make for the deadbolt. You can use a specialty jig or the paper template that comes with the lock. 2-3/8 inches and 2-3/4 inches are the most common for back sets in the U.S. If the door already has a knob or handle on it, measure to see where its center lands and line up your deadbolt’s back set to that measurement. If the door hasn’t got any hardware, choose whatever looks best. Mark the spot on the front and back of the door because you’ll drill the hole from both sides. Then mark the center spot for the latch bolt holes.

2. Bore the holes: Use a 2-1/8 inch hole saw to bore the hole on the face of the door. Align the pilot bit with the centering mark. A speed square or drill with a level helps make sure you’re not drilling at an angle. Remember to stop before you go through to the other side. Drilling from both sides prevents you from splintering the finish. Then bore the hole for the latch bolt using about a 1-inch spade bit.

3. Install the latch bolt: Fit the latch bolt into the edge of the hole and mark the outline of the faceplate. Scoring the outline with a utility knife helps prevent the wood from splintering. Using a chisel, carve out the recess for the faceplate. Fine-tune it until the faceplate is flush with the door jamb. Make sure that the top of the latch bolt is facing up, and screw the faceplate in.

4. Install the lock: Attach the deadbolt mechanism. Be sure the keyed cylinder is on the outside. Turn the inside lever to make sure the thumb turn is in the correct position (it should point up when it’s unlocked).

5. Install the strike plate:

Lining up the latch bolt with the strike plate on the door jamb can be the toughest part of this project, so try this tip: mark the bolt with lipstick or chalk and stamp a mark on the jamb. Drill two overlapping holes in the jamb with a spade bit. Chisel another mortise into the door jamb for the strike plate.
Test the alignment. Tape the strike plate in place. Close the door and close the bolt. If the bolt won’t turn all the way, drill the bolt hole a little deeper or adjust the position of the strike plate.
Using long 3-inch screws to secure the strike plate gives extra enforcement against kick-ins. You’ll need to drill pilot holes before driving in the screws; if you don’t, those long screws will get stuck, and you’ll strip the screw heads before they’re all the way in. Alternate between the two screws as you drive them in place; if you drive one all the way in and then the other, you’re more than likely to knock the faceplate out of alignment.
Now, close the door and test the deadbolt to make sure it aligns.

Here are some more helpful tips:

If you’re drilling a hole in a metal door, use a hole saw made for metal.
Check the size of the hole saw before you cut. If you drill a hole that’s too small for the new deadbolt, it’s hard to go back with a bigger hole saw since there’s no surface for the guide bit to grab in. Try plugging the hole with a block of wood or use a drum sander to make the hole bigger.