How to Install a Butcher Block Countertop
A new kitchen countertop is always a welcome upgrade, and butcher block is a great option. It’s affordable, eco-friendly and adds a farmhouse or rustic vibe to a kitchen. This is an advanced DIY project, but with a little effort and planning, you can do it right. Learn how to install a butcher block countertop in this Lowe’s video:
Installing a butcher block countertop can be a more advanced project than you think. If you have an undermount sink, you’ll have to make sure that the top is waterproof. With a large kitchen, you’ll have to use several pieces.
Measurements
Make a drawing of your cabinet layout. Measure along the walls on all sides and also along the cabinet fronts. Cabinets are typically 24 to 24-1/2 inches deep. Allow for a 1/8-inch expansion gap along the walls. Where the wall is not even and the gap is a little larger, if you’ll be covering it with a backsplash, you don’t have to worry about it. Also, check the depth from the walls to the front of the cabinet doors or drawers as at many places as possible.
Planning and Prep
Once you have your measurements, it’s time to come up with a plan. If you have a short straight run of cabinets, you can most likely install a single length of countertop. If you have to turn a corner, you’ll need to seam two pieces together. The two types of seams are butt joints and miter joints; the butt joint is the easier of the two. Any other seams along the top are up to you. If you have a busy kitchen and you don’t want to worry about a seam at the sink, you can always place it somewhere else.
Some types of butcher block have to acclimate to the room where it’s being installed. Make sure you seal all of the sides within 48 hours of unwrapping it. If you’re going to store the block a few days before starting your project, keep it wrapped and away from heat vents as they can cause the wood to warp.
If you have an old countertop that needs to be removed, you can back out the screws using a screw gun, or if it’s glued down, you can use an oscillating tool. Remove the cabinet drawers and doors so you don’t damage them.
Creating a Template
For kitchens with a lot of angles or that are U-shaped, you may want to consider making a template. Using thin strips of straight cardboard or 1/8-inch paneling, set the pieces in place over the front of the cabinets to mark the front edge. Make sure they’re even along the front. Temporarily mark the back too. Next, with the pieces cut to the depth of the countertop, set them perpendicular to the front edge. You can secure them with hot glue. Creating templates for each run of cabinets will allow you to see where the seams need to be placed and if the countertop needs to be scribed along the wall. Then lay the templates on top of your butcher block to mark the cuts.
If you have a farmhouse sink, you’ll need to make some reference marks for the cutout. Mark the center of your sink on the wall. Also, mark the center on the front of the sink and transfer the interior basin walls to the apron front using the framing square just for reference.
Cutting the Butcher Block
Now it’s time to cut the butcher block. Cut the pieces one at a time, and check the fit after each cut. Cut off any rounded edges at the joints to make flat seams. Start with the corner piece first. Mark the length on top, then use a saw guide to create a straight cut. Apply painter’s tape before cutting to prevent the wood from chipping. Measure the distance from the saw chute to the side of the blade and transfer that to the butcher block. The blade should cut into the excess side of the line. Secure the guide to the top, start the saw, and make the cut. Rotate the piece and cut the adjacent side to fit. Set the corner piece in place and make sure the front edge is where you want it. Clamp it if possible.
Set the next piece on the cabinet over the sink. Line up the front and keep it tight against the corner piece. For the sink cutout, transfer the center mark on the wall to the butcher block. Also transfer the marks on the front of the sink if needed. Use a combo square to get the distance from the front of the countertop to the cabinet face and transfer it to the top. You’ll need that to line up the sink template.
In this featured kitchen, the template option for no countertop reveal was chosen. Cut out the template and line up the center mark from the wall. Also, line up the countertop depth mark and trace the template.
Drill starter holes with the hole saw at the corners. Next, set up the straight edge to cut along the lines. Make sure the blade is at the excess side of the lines and that you start just short of the starting hole. For the back side line, line up the saw blade, pull back on the guard and slowly plunge it into the material to make the cut. If there’s any additional material to cut, use a good jigsaw with a new blade to carefully make the cuts.
Fit the top in place and check the front edge. Also, make sure the top covers the sink flange.
For the last piece, measure from the middle slab to the wall along the back and the front of the cabinets. Transfer those measurements to the butcher block and cut. If the wall bows, use a belt sander to shave a little bit of the material off. Check the fit.
Back at the corner, mark where pieces come together. You’ll need those later for reference.
Sanding
Once you have a good fit, you’ll want to smooth out any rough edges with a sander or fine grit sandpaper and create the eased edge to match the factory edge. Don’t sand off the corner reference mark yet; you’ll need it for the next step, which is joining the seams. If you want to use a router to create the eased edge, use a 1/8-inch roundover bit set to the correct depth. Test it on a a scrap piece; when it looks good, run the router over the butcher block edges, keep the butcher block on the left, and move the router forward.
Connecting the Pieces
You have several options for connecting the pieces. A pocket hole jig will create angled holes for screws to secure the pieces together. Drill the holes about every six inches and be sure the screws will drive into the piece with the cross-grain.
If you’re using miter bolts, lay the pieces top side down and line up the reference mark for the corner. Draw marks across each seam for the miter bolts. With a router, set a 1/2-inch straight-cut bit to a depth of about 1/2 inch. Then cut a channel into the slabs to create a space for the bolt. Move the router slowly and use a high-cutting speed if possible. Create a wider area on the head side so you can fit a wrench in to tighten.
Sealing
Before putting everything back together, apply a coat of sealant to all sides of the countertop. If the countertop will be exposed to water with an undermount sink, use a waterproof tung oil sealant. Follow the directions for your sealer.
Typically, after everything’s been sanded, you’ll clean with a tack cloth. Then apply the sealant with a natural bristle brush or a lint-free rag. Remember to coat the entire butcher block – top, sides and bottom – and allow it to dry. The wood will soak up the first coat. A second coat is a good idea before you put the butcher block in place.
Installation
To secure the slabs to the cabinet, use either brackets with elongated holes to allow the wood to expand and contract or cabinet corner braces. Ream the holes to make them larger if needed. You can piece the countertop together on the cabinets, or if you have help, you can do it before setting it in place.
For a farmhouse sink, apply a bead of sealant to the top of the sink, then lower the countertop into place.
Make sure the miter bolt channels are lined up, then tighten the bolts. Make sure the front edge lines up along the cabinets and clamp it to keep it from moving. Then secure the top in place with washers and screws through the cabinet braces and brackets.
When everything looks good, cut the holes for the faucet and accessories with the hole saw. Remember to seal the bare wood.
Next, install the backsplash. Add a little bit of construction adhesive or silicone to the back and set it into place. To help hold it into place, use weights or braces extended from the upper cabinets. After the backsplash is secured, apply a few more coats of sealer to the countertop following the manufacturer’s instructions. After the last coat of wood sealer is dried, apply silicone sealant along the walls, where the backsplash meets the countertop, and where the countertop meets the sink. remember to add silicone along the front edge of the sink. Follow up with a smoothing tool.
Reconnecting the Plumbing
Once the sealant has cured, you can reconnect the plumbing. Start by installing the faucet. Just slide it into the hole and tighten the nut onto the stem, then secure it with screws. Connect the supply lines to the water valves. This faucet has a pull-down spray head. Connect the hose and secure the weight. To reconnect the drain, roll a piece of plumber’s putty into your hands. Press it into place around the sink hole, then insert the strainer. Then using a drain wrench, secure the strainer underneath with the washers and nut (do not overtighten). Clean the excess putty off the top. Some cast iron sinks have thick walls and might require an extended drain flange.
Next, hook up the P-trap and drain. Dry fit everything first, then mark the fittings with a pen before gluing them. For PVC standpipe or waste pipe connections, apply some PVC primer to the fitting and the pipe, then apply PVC cement. Slide the fitting into place and give it a quarter turn to line up the marks. Hold it for a few seconds.
At the sink hole side, the slip nuts make for an easy hook-up. Just make sure all your washers are in place and hand tighten.
Once everything is installed, run some water to check for leaks. You might need to reset the washers and nuts if it’s leaking. Finish up by applying a moisture barrier tape above the dishwasher.
