How to Install Engineered Hardwood Flooring

The stunning look of new hardwood makes any home great. It comes in many colors and species to match the style of your home. You can choose traditional solid hardwood or engineered hardwood, which is a more budget friendly alternative. Learn how to install engineered hardwood flooring in this Lowe’s video:

You can install engineered hardwood in three ways: staple or nail down, glue down and floating. Your application will depend on your subfloor and specific product.

Plan and Prep

For any method, you’ll need to prep your subfloor. Lay out any underlayment if needed and mark a starting line. Here are some tips for all methods:

Let your flooring acclimate to the room temperature and humidity for at least 72 hours. Some products need to be removed from the boxes, others don’t. Check the instructions and follow the specifics for installation.
Also, before you get started, check for warped and defective boards. A few bad pieces are not uncommon.
It’s a good idea to install the boards from several boxes to mix up color and shades.
Add up the flooring width to calculate the width of the last row. If it’s skinnier than one inch, cut the first row in half.

While you’re installing, try to keep a few things in mind. Maintain the recommended expansion gap at the perimeter of the room. Always stagger the joints about six inches and avoid stair stepping and H joints. Try to get a few rows between joints that are lined up.

Floating Installation

Of all the installation methods, floating is the easiest. it works great over existing vinyl, and some flooring even locks together to omake the installation even easier. To start, be sure you’ve prepped the floor with underlayment and layout lines. Use the longest, straightest boards for row one and set your first piece on the starting line with the tongue side facing the wall. Place spacers against the wall to maintain the expansion gap, typically about 1/2 inch for floating. On the next piece, overlap the board so the end joint is tight. Work left to right to finish up row one. At the end, you might need to cut; set the piece face up and cut through.

For row two, angle the piece into the first row and fold flat to lock it in place; same thing for the next piece. You can use a tapping block to help lock pieces together. Then, just keep going – it’s that easy.

Remember to keep your joints tight and staggered at least six inches. Cut around any obstructions like vents or columns. To get under door jambs with locking engineered, you might have to shave off the ledge of the groove in the previous row. Apply a bead of glue to both pieces and slide into place. Hold the pieces together with painters tape until the glue dries. When you get to the end, you might need to use a pull bar to wedge the final strips into place.

Glue Down Installation

The glue down method is often the best choice for concrete floors like in your basement. With your floor prepped and marked, begin by spreading flooring adhesive along the starting line with a v-notch trowel. Hold it at a 45-degree angle and spread just enough to work on a few rows at a time. Install row one on the starting line. Yse spacers to help maintain the expansion gap.

To begin row two, you might have to tap the first piece in place with a rubber mallet and tapping block. For the next piece, attach the ends, then squeeze into place. Try to avoid sliding the pieces through the glue too much.

Continue with the installation, staggering the joints and keeping the ends tight. Periodicallty check that the glue is adhering to the boards; if not, it’s probably dried. Just scrape away the dry stuff and put down fresh glue. Wipe any glue off the surface as you go with the recommended cleaner. Also, you can use weights to hold down any slightly bowed pieces. Continue installing.

Near the end, you might have to kneel on the floor. Tape will prevent the flooring from sliding apart. For the last row, install using a pole bar.
After the floor is finished, avoid heavy traffic for 24 hours.

Staple Down Installation

The staple down method works for 3/8- to 5/8-inch flooring. With the underlayment down, start with the straightest boards, groove side toward the wall on the starting line. Use spacers to hold the expansion gap. Base nail 1/2 inch from the edge about one to two inches from the ends and every six inches in between. Drill pilot holes if you’re using a hammer and nail set. Finish off this row and start the second. Tap the piece of the second row in place with a tapping block and mallet and blind nail at a 45-degree angle just above the tongue. Make sure the heads are countersunk. Finish the row.

On the third row, you can use the floor stapler. Staples are typically used on engineered woods and nails on solid hardwoods. You can practice on a scrap piece to adjust the air pressure. The staples must be countersunk. Set the stapler against the boards and space the staples every six inches.

Keep installing the floor. The joints need to be tight and staggered. For the last few rows where the blind stapler won’t fit, you might have to face nail the boards. If the last row is about one inch, just glue it to the previous row.

For Any Method

Cut around any vents or columns with a jigsaw. To finish things up, cut any excess underlayment, fill nail holes with putty and install transitions, baseboards, then moldings. Nail to the walls, not the flooring.