How to Install New Shower Tile
Nothing brightens up a bathroom like a freshly tiled shower wall. Learn how to install new shower tile in this Lowe’s video:
Remove the Old Tile and Drywall
Start by removing the old tile or the fiberglass shower wall. This is a dusty job, so use plastic to cover your doorways, wear a respirator that’s rated for dust, cover the floor with a drop cloth, and make sure there’s plenty of ventilation. Use a hammer and chisel and work your way across. Use a reciprocating saw to cut out any screws.
Drywall is no longer used as backing because of mold issues; any backing under the showerhead has to be cement backer board. Remove the drywall, using caution around plumbing and cutting only to the drywall depth.
Make sure all your studs are in really good condition and that everything is free of mold. If you see any mold, you need to stop work, call a professional, and have it removed. If you need to re-route any plumbing or install a new tub or shower pan, now’s the time to do it.
Install the Backer Board
Select backer board with the same thickness as the surrounding drywall so you have a seamless transition from one to the other. Measure your work area and cut your boards to fit. To cut backer board, mark it, score with a knife, and snap along the cut (use hand tools to avoid creating excess silica dust). Use shims at the base to set a 1/4-inch expansion gap.
Mark the studs before installing. Secure the backer board to the studs with concrete backer board screws (not drywall screws). Mix up some thin set mortar, then press cement backer board seam tape onto the mortar and use a putty knife to press it down securely.
There are two ways to create a waterproof barrier around your backer board. You can either put up a vapor barrier behind it or use a paint-on waterproof membrane on top of it. If you use both methods, there’s a small risk of trapping moisture between those two barriers, so it’s not advisable unless your bathroom is on an exterior wall. If your bathroom is located on an exterior wall, check your local building codes and see if a plastic vapor barrier is required.
If you’re using a paint-on waterproof membrane, brush it onto all the seams, then use a roller to cover all the exposed backer board. When the first coat is completely dry, add another coat and let it completely dry.
Measure and Select Tile
Determine how much tile you’ll need by measuring each wall area (width x height). Add up the wall areas and add 10% to make sure you have a little extra. When you’re using ceramic tile, try to find boxes with the same dye lot number. If you can’t find matching numbers, mix tiles from different boxes while you’re installing so that any color difference won’t be as noticeable.
Plan Your Tile Pattern
Center a tile horizontally along the length of the wall and do a quick dry fit to make sure you don’t have tiny tiles at the end of the rows. If so, you can adjust your layout, shifting it to either side, to make sure you have wider tiles on the side.
For the vertical layout, start the pattern at the top of the wall so that you have full uncut tiles at the top and any cut tiles you might have will be at the bottom where the tub or shower pan might be slightly out of level. Because you will probably be cutting that bottom row of tiles, start your installation with the second row. Measure and mark the spot for your second row of tile, then attach a board to the wall to act as a guide.
Install the Tile
Mix up some thinset mortar according to the instructions, aiming for a creamy peanut butter consistency. Spread the thinset in place, working in a small section at a time. Use the notch side of the trowel to texture the thinset, then push your tile firmly into place. Use spacers between the tiles to make sure your gaps are consistent. Different tile sizes and shapes work best with different trowel notch sizes, so find out which trowel notch size is recommended. Check regularly to make sure you are keeping everything level. It is a good idea to pull one tile off after you install it to check that the thinset is sticking to the whole tile; if not, use a trowel with a larger notch.
To cut a tile, use a tile cutter and just score the length of the tile and press firmly to cut. To cut curbs, use tile nippers or a hole saw designed for tile. For bullnose or edge pieces, use a Ziploc bag, fill it with mortar, snip the corner about a half inch, and pipe it through the bag like frosting on a cake.
Once the tiles are in place, remove the guide board and fill the screw holes with your waterproof membrane, then finish the bottom row. Make sure that you leave a 1-4-inch expansion gap at the bottom.
Apply Grout
Once the thinset has dried for 24 hours, you can remove the spacers and get ready for grout. Use only unsanded grout with glass, polished marble or metal tile to avoid scratching the tile.
Mix a small amount of grout at a time and apply it with a rubber float. Work it into the spaces by using a diagonal motion. Once it has dried for about ten minutes, use a wet sponge to wipe away any excess, but try not to remove any of the grout in the joints. Once the grout is totally dry, you can use a grout haze remover to clean the tile faces. It can take several applications to remove stubborn haze, so take your
